
2 days · 5 summary articles
The body of renowned Nepali-British mountaineer Nirmal Purja was recovered Sunday at approximately 5,700 meters on Broad Peak in northern Pakistan, the Alpine Club of Pakistan announced. Purja, 43, was among 10 climbers swept away by an avalanche on the 8,047-meter mountain on Thursday, cutting off all communication with the expedition.
Elite Exped, the company co-founded by Purja, confirmed his death on Saturday, stating that no members of the team had survived. The Alpine Club of Pakistan later said rescue teams had also recovered the bodies of three other climbers, including Purja’s trusted guides Pur Bahadur Gurung and Nima Sherpa. Authorities previously identified three of the deceased as a U.S. woman, an Omani woman, and a Nepali man, whose remains were airlifted to Skardu on Friday.
Purja, widely known as “Nims” or “Nimsdai,” was attempting to become the first person to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks for a third time, and the second time without supplemental oxygen. He had most recently reached the summit of Gasherbrum II on July 21. In 2019, he set a record by climbing all 14 eight-thousanders in six months and six days, a feat documented in the Netflix film *14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible*. He also led the first winter ascent of K2 in 2021.
Born in 1983 near the Dhaulagiri range in Nepal, Purja joined the British Army’s Gurkha Brigade before serving in the Special Boat Service, a Royal Navy special forces unit. He was awarded the Order of the British Empire in 2018. His mountaineering career began in 2012, and by 2019, he had climbed all 14 eight-thousanders, later repeating the achievement without bottled oxygen in under three years.
Nepal’s Prime Minister Balendra Shah expressed condolences on social media, calling the deaths of Purja and the other climbers a “tragic loss.” The Alpine Club of Pakistan said the recovered bodies were being transported to a Japanese base camp. Prince William also paid tribute to Purja on X, according to German media reports.
The avalanche struck as the team moved from Camp 2 to Camp 3 on Broad Peak, a mountain Purja had previously described as one he loved. The disaster has drawn widespread mourning in the mountaineering community, with fellow climber Kristin Harila telling Norwegian media that Purja’s death was “unreal” and a “tragic accident for the families and the community.”
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